Berlins Charm at Christmas
- Emily Coles
- Dec 23, 2024
- 7 min read
Traditional German markets are mimicked around the world, so what better way to spend a festive weekend than indulging in smoky bratwursts and pine huts at the heart and soul of authentic Christmas charm , Germany!
Rich in history, Berlin is a city full of fascination, but with twinkling lights on every corner and the lingering aroma of bratwursts filling the air, its markets are certainly the talking point throughout the winter months. We head to Berlin for a long weekend this December and not only got to journey back to a time the land our hotel was on would have been Russian territory, but we got to feel the magic of Christmas like we were children excited about spotting Santa Clause again.
Catching an early evening flight from Heathrow, we didn't touch down in Berlin until gone 9pm, so in an eager fashion a Bolt was on its way to kick start our festive adventure. PS, the German underground system is super easy to navigate, so for budget savvy travellers, hopping on a train for half an hour for €4 is certainly worth it! But of course I am impatient so a swift ride later we were checked into our hotel and heading for a crisp walk towards Brandenburg Bridge.
You can imagine, Capital City, Christmas time, historic landmarks, the crowds can be pretty bad during the day, so visiting a landmark that shines morning, noon or night is the perfect way to start your trip after a late journey. Glowing with golden lights, we shared the moment with few others, appreciating the creative genius and pure talent that went into Brandenburg Bridges architecture. Whether it's strolling down after an evening at the markets or waking with the sun while the city still rests, it can truly change your entire perspective.
Some how 9pm turned to 1am and it was time to head back to the hotel ahead of a full day of exploring. We stayed at the NH Collection hotel a short stroll from Check Point Charlie, which is exactly where we started the next day. The most famous crossing point between East and West Berlin, known for its numerous escape attempts, and most recently known as the setting for many spy and thriller stories, including James Bond, Check Point Charlie is like stepping back into history. As you approach the booth, you are met with almost a memorial wall, detailing the locations history from pre war to now, there is also a small museum you can visit to learn more. Unfortunately for us it wasn't a landmark that we particularly clicked with, but if you're already in Berlin I'd still suggest a visit, especially if history is your niche!
Heading East, back past our hotel, we stopped off at Starbucks for a toffee nut latte, better than buying gloves to keep your hands warm right? before continuing towards Alexandre Platz. The hub of Berlin, this is where you'll find one of Berlins biggest markets, as well as a shopping mall, a host of bars and restaurants and I'd say the best social scenes too. But before I get ahead of myself, as we made our way (around a half hour walk) we passed three different markets, the first you had to pay €2 entry, but you then have access to proper German steins and sit down restaurants. As you carry on towards the cathedral, you will reach the Winter Market at Schloßplatz, this one was our personal fav and the one we returned to the most.
Greeted with spicy jerk wraps, followed by traditional cuisines and delicious pancakes, this market tops the tree for one special reason, it is genuinely a hidden gem. The main market is found a short stretch from the Cathedral, faced with dazzling lights, but as you pass the dancing huts, you see a short tunnel leading through to a square that feels frozen in time. Like a gateway to a more magical Christmas, I can't emphasize the feeling with any other term than warmth.
After stumbling upon this joy, we spent an hour or so selecting different foods to indulge on and which stalls to browse before heading on towards Alexanderplatz, it took less than five minutes to realize how close we actually were to the 'main market' . Dependent on where you find joy at a Christmas Market, this is one of Berlins biggest, with an ice rink drawing you to the center and a ring of craft stands, homemade liquor's, chocolate strawberry's and festive photo booths surrounding every bend. This Christmas Winter Village was mesmerizing, but for us, didn't offer the same charm as the first.
So after a little wonder around we made our way to the shopping center... before devouring some curried chips and turning straight back around because a shopping on a Saturday right before Christmas was slightly too busy!
To make the most of the rest of our afternoon we decided to carry on walking toward the Berlin Wall Art gallery, this took around 20 minutes from Alexandra Platz ... but from our hotel was a good hour! Although crowded in areas, we were able to walk the length of the wall, admiring the creativity from The 'Fraternal kiss' to 'It happened in
November', for people looking to explore history in a 'fun' way, this is definitely worth the visit. You can walk the length of the art in around 15/20 minutes, but to soak it all in I'd allow a good hour or two. Once you've finished you'll find a range of cafes and restaurants in the area to fuel up ahead of the walk back.
Unfortunately we didn't get the chance to head to the other end of the wall, but if you do have a spare morning or afternoon then a stroll in the opposite direction will show you Berlin Wall memorial and offer the chance to appreciate and remember the true history.
One hundred 'my feet ache' and a few extra 'I hate walking's later, we stumbled upon a hidden market making the 25,000 step count worth it! Now, we weren't sure at the time whether it was a subtle artsy type market/fair for Christmas, or a quirky market all year round. It was in fact just an every day vibrant market! There were all sorts of stands, from 'miniature bums' to handmade jewellery, an array of food and drinks, music and the best part, a little access way to the river where locals were enjoying their drinks away from the chaos. I would 100% suggest paying a visit to Holzmart if you get the chance and enjoy anything that oozes character.
By this point there was no convincing me to walk the rest of the way back to the hotel, so we jumped on the underground and head back to the hotel ...
BERLIN UNDERGROUND - Unlike the UK train systems, Germanys deals are too fair to complain, offering any 4 underground journeys of up to 2 hours for €10! BUT do not forget to validate each ticket before you use it to travel!
We arrived at Standmitte station, grabbed a few snacks from the supermarket ... milka and beer to be precise, and tucked ourselves back in the hotel to recover from a day of tourism! Although that didn't last long, by 6pm we were back at the Christmas markets indulging in cheesy fondue bread, chili chicken and rice, homemade curry, bratwursts and beer. The perfect festive ending to a busy day.
....
Sunday was my fav! We woke with no set plans for the day, just with numerous TikTok's of baby pandas between us, which only meant one thing. It was time to go to Berlin Zoo!!!
A short 20 min train journey away and you'll find yourself stepping off Berlin Zoologischer Garten station, sat perfectly between the zoo and a winter wonderland. Stopping at the Spreegold for some Canadian pancakes and an ice coffee. Overlooking the market as locals began warming up their huts, we enjoyed a slow start to the day and a lovely breaky.
Around a 2 minute walk from the café, Berlin Zoo was open and waiting. Considering it was a Sunday we had expected a mob mentality, but there was no such thing. You could hear birds chirp and the elephants stomp without a peep of screaming children or moaning boyfriends! Starting with the hippos, we made our way around, all in all I think we were there about 4 hours, so well worth the €20 each. My favourite animal of course was the pandas, so cute and so relatable, I know they're mocked as not the most inelegant animal, but if I could be happy chewing a leaf all day I would aha! But, the rhinos, monkeys, giraffes and the gorillas having private time in a very public place certainly were close seconds.
So a morning at the zoo is also a must do, and while you're there, WeihnachtsZauber Berlin market are the only one we visited that offered beer in steins as opposed to plastic cups, an authentic experience, right? We tried soured cream and pepperoni on sweet bread and BBQ pork on skewers before heading to Berlin Mall! WOW! four floors with everything you need to complete the Christmas shopping and a food court designed with heaven in mind. With a mini market connecting the east and west side together, and rows of twinkling lights shining throughout, we were in and out in a matter of hours, with the last of the gifts secured.
Time to through the bags in the room and head back towards Check Point Charlie for an evening of footy at Murphy's Irish Pub. At this point it's fair to say everywhere is cheaper than London, but 8 pints and nachos for €55 in a city center was an absolute steal. Chelsea won, the nachos were yum and I don't remember the rest, so all in all a crackin' review of Murphys pub.
I'm told on the way home we grabbed a slim chickens and stopped off in the hotel for another, but without proof I can not confirm, review or deny!
Our flight home the following day was at 6pm (so we thought but no comment on the delays!) so we spent our last hungover hours strolling around Berlin Mall and indulging in food. German food may not be presented the best, but wow it's a steak and jacket I'd fly 2 hours for.
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